August 2009

Thimphu’s Memorial Chorten is both a chorten and a temple in one. It occupies a prominent place in the center of the main road near the south entrance of the city proper; traffic splits to go around it. It was built in 1974 to honor the 3rd King, who wanted to construct a chorten to represent the mind of the Buddha,but passed away before starting that project.

On the day I visited, the grounds were filled with people, some next to the large prayer wheels in the garden, some circling the temple (clockwise only) reciting prayers, but most seated, waiting for monks to distribute a rice and vegetable lunch before an address and blessing by the Je Khenpo (the religious head of Bhutan). It was a "Moelam Chenmo," or Great Prayer Festival.

I circled, looking for good photo shots. I had gone up the steps of the temple itself to get a better view, when a young monk, perhaps 12 years old, beckoned me inside. I slipped off my shoes and followed. The ground level contains four shrines, one in each of the four cardinal directions, each with different photographs of the 3rd King. The eastern shrine included a large statue of the historical Buddha. Fruit, food stuffs, and money had been left in offering. Up steep narrow stairs, there are two more levels, each with four more shrines. A huge wooden carving occupies the center of the building, reaching up through all three levels, behind the shrines. The carving displays hundreds of protective deities, some looking pretty wrathful, and scenes from the bardo, the short stage in which the spirit is judged and awaits reincarnation. We circled the second story three times, then stepped out on to the roof over the first level, where we overlooked the crowd. A majority of the people were older, often elderly, and dressed in red or purple, indicating that they were lay clergy or just very devout.

Two tents were set up to cover some of the crowd. The smaller one had chairs for dignitaries.

Back outside, I made sure to complete three circuits of the temple. Shortly after I finish, a few groups of monks hurry around the left side of the building. The Je Khenpo was about to speak. I found a spot in the back and stayed to listen. His speech was all in Dzongka, and he made few gestures, so I didn’t stay long.

Sunday, Aug. 23, we got a bit of an early start and hiked up to Tango Goemba, a monastery about 12 km north of Thimphu. We started with a drive up the valley, winding through lush pine and oak forests, following the swollen Wang Chu River to a parking area at the base of some small but steep mountains.

On the way, we paused at a giant painting of Guru Rinpoche, who first introduced Buddhism to Bhutan in the 7th century. His golden-skinned portrait is one of the most impressive artworks I’ve seen here. A stream trickles past the huge rock, turning a prayer wheel inside a small building just below.

Mike, Noah and I hiked slowly for about an hour up steep switchbacks.

We met other people on the trail, mostly ordinary Bhutanese going to pray at the temple inside the monastery, but also monks coming and going.

About halfway up, we can see Tango Goemba looming above us.

The Tango Goemba site has had religious significance since the 12th century when was the home of the Lama who brought the Drukpa Kagyupa school of Buddhism to Bhutan. The monastery was built there in the 15th century by Drukpa Kunley ("The Divine Madman" -- look him up). It was extended in the early 18th century and again in the late 19th century, and restored in the mid-1990s. Tango is the highest center of Buddhist learning in the country; almost every Je Khenpo (religious head of Bhutan) completed the 9-year program there. After completing that program, monks traditionally spend 3 years, 3 months and 3 days in mediation at the nearby Cheri Goemba retreat, built in 1619 by Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, the founder or first unifier of Bhutan. It is currently the home of an 11 year old boy believed to be the seventh reincarnation of the fourth desi, or ruler, of Bhutan.

Beside the gorgeous forest, the other highlight of our visit is the gathering of monks for the mid-day prayers. Never have I seen so many monks, in their best robes, gathered in one place.

On our way down, we pass pack ponies carrying supplies to the monastery higher up. All-in-all, a beautiful, peaceful and delightful morning.

As always, you can view more of my photos at https://www.travellerspoint.com/gallery/users/rsherry/

Bhutan has a huge and diverse flora of about 7,000 plant species that spans tropical forests in the south up through temperate broad-leaved forests to pine and fir forests and up past timberline to alpine meadows. It's especially known for its rhododenrons (48 species), orchids, and ferns. Many of our garden plants come from the Himalayas, such as azaleas, camellias, poppies, alliums, lillies, magnolias, potentilla, saxifrages, and dozens of species of primroses and rhododendrons, just to name a few.

Bhutan inaugurated its Royal Botanical Garden just a few years ago, in 2005, though work started in 2000. It is associated with the National Biodiversity Centre, the National Herbarium, and the Royal Bhutan Gene Bank (currently for domestic animals and crops) in Serbithang, about 15km from Thimphu and another 1,000m higher in the hills, at 2,500m in elevation (8,200 ft above sea level). It is still in its infancy in terms of plant collections, but has lovely views and a great rock garden.

I took a Saturday to drive up to the highest pass in Bhutan with a paved road, Chele La, about 4,000m in elevation (13,120 ft above sea level). The drive took me towards Paro and then up through forest of Himalayan blue pine and then alpine fir draped with lichen. The understory was dominated by rhododendrons, which are spectacular when they bloom in the spring. The fir gradually gave way to shrubby rhodendrons and willows, and finally to alpine meadow. Like all acessible high points in Bhutan, the surrounding knolls were covered with prayer flags.

On one side of the road was a picnic table, a prayer wheel, and a oven for burning incense.

It's still the rainy season, so the view was not as spectacular as it will be, but the flowers were amazing.

And what alpine adventure would be complete without edelweiss?

Finally, here's a couple more pictures of the surroundings at Chele La. Also, you can see more of my pictures at https://www.travellerspoint.com/gallery/users/rsherry/